My Peace Corps Experience in Mali and Burkina Faso, West Africa

Almost There!

The last stint in homestay officially ended today. We packed up our bikes, suitcases, and Peace Corps-issued metal trunks, layered with 8 weeks worth of dust, and headed back to Tubaniso for our last week before swearing in as Peace Corps volunteers and moving to our sites. Although I have to admit I did breathe a sigh of relief that the light at the end of the tunnel is finally becoming apparent, it was hard to leave behind a family I’ve come to care about and a place that, though I never thought it possible, has become pleasant and familiar to me.

The last days in homestay village were anything but relaxing, though. I came back to village to hear that my sister had delivered her baby during the time I’d been away, a four-day old boy. While I’d known my recently-married sister was likely to give birth soon, I didn’t expect to be around to actually see the baby. He’s beautiful and healthy as anyone could hope, and I got a chance to hold him quite a bit on the day of the baby naming ceremony. Traditionally, when a child is born, Malians don’t give him or her a name for 5 days, at which time the men get together and choose a name. Meanwhile, the women come to visit the mother and child, bring gifts of soap or pagnes, and hold and coo over the baby–and sometimes, if the family has the means, a feast or all-out party ensues. Families in my small village don’t have the means to finance a big celebration, and my sister was no exception, so essentially the day was spent greeting women, sitting around the yard, drinking tea and passing the baby around.

We had a number of technical activities this week, starting with baby weighing on Monday. This was a practice run for us to get the hang of setting up the scales, organizing the moms, weighing the babies and giving nutritional advice. We expected to practice on a handful of moms, but two chaotic hours later we’d weighed 50 babies from the village! Mothers just kept showing up. While something so simple as weighing a child may seem to be a given in more developed places, it can be a lifesaver in places like Mali where child malnutrition is such a big problem and many mothers don’t necessarily always recognize the signs that their children aren’t getting enough nutrients. Thankfully, the majority of our babies were in the green zone, meaning at a healthy weight; but there were several yellows and even reds, indicating the need for doctor intervention. The weighing was mass chaos, but good practice for future projects.

uesday’s project was an ameliorated porridge cooking demonstration. In places where female literacy is low and women wouldn’t just be able to read a recipe given to them, a demonstration is a good way to get the point across. The porridge we were making is fortified with peanut and corn powder to help children on the borderline of malnourishment to gain weight rapidly, and it’s easy and inexpensive to make. What is harder is explaining things in Bambara. Thankfully, the women took over with the ingredients and generally knew what to do; our role was to emphasize why making the porridge was so important for the health of the kids. We ended the demonstration with women filling their own bowls with porridge to take home to their families.

On Wednesday, the focus was on animations, or informal “health talks” given to a group of people about a certain topic. Our group chose to focus on the importance of breastfeeding and appropriate weaning and nutrition for small children. We developed a short presentation in Bambara and created a game to test their knowledge on the topic, and brought it in front of a group of about 10 women. Generally it was well recieved–although this is an activity I will wait on until my language skills are pretty strong, as it’s hard to deal with questions that arise when you are still getting used to hearing and using the language.

 

 

 

Our last project of the week was to build a soak pit in a local village. Soak pits are underground holes filled with rocks, where water coming from the latrine can drain out so that it doesn’t sit on the ground attracting mosquitoes and flies and all of the diseases that come with them. Kids also play in the standing pools of water, and when it rains debris from the latrine get into paths where people walk. Again, something that seems extremely simple to anyone fortunate enough to live in a place with basic sanitationA infrastructure is not a given here. We teamed up with the water/sanitation trainees to build a basic soak pit in a village. (Well, honestly, the Wat/San people did most of the work–health kids are less about the engineering side of the process, and more about educating people about why soak pits are important. I did mix some cement, though :-) )

Aside from that, we had our normal language classes and our final end-of-training language test (which, thankfully, I passed, so I can officially swear in as a PCV). It was a hectic week, but aside from one short but absolutely awful day lying in bed with an intestinal infection (not sure the exact cause, but Ciprofloxacin works wonders :-) ), I really felt like it was one of the most productive weeks I’ve had here so far.

It’s hard to finally feel like you’ve become comfortable with what was once so strange, only to have to pick up and feel uncomfortable and unfamiliar all over again.This is exactly what is happening with the end of training. I finally feel settled and the daily routine of training feels normal, and now it’s over, and I’ll be moving on to being completely on my own in an entirely new place. Peace Corps certainly creates that whiplash effect–we are always moving from village to training center to site visit, back and forth and back and forth again. I’m living out of a suitcase. I’m looking forward to laying down roots in one place, and having a space to call my own.

Meanwhile, the goodbyes are surely the hardest part. There are certain things I won’t miss about homestay and living with my family. Like sharing a nyegen. But in some ways, even the things I initially thought of as annoyances have become a part of the rythym of my life here. Like the women up before dawn, pounding millet outside my window (it took me until week 4 to realize that no one was actually playing the drums at 5am). And my brothers’ and sisters’ little faces pressed into my screen door, waiting for me to open it or to do something worth watching, whichever comes first. This is my life now, and I’ve found the beauty in it. I’ll miss the laughter of my host moms boiling tea at night, after all the men have gone to bed, the music of conversations I couldn’t always follow. I’ll miss the little village school and the many conversations there with the other PCTs, and sitting under the ga with my host brother at high noon, sipping tea and saying nothing at all.

No time to dwell, though. I’m on to the best part of the adventure, the chance to do what I came here for. I’m ready. My time in homestay village prepared me well, and I definitely won’t forget this family.

 

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